This weekend was my favorite weekend abroad thus far. I didn’t travel to a far off place, and I didn’t do anything extraordinary, but I was able to share Venice with the lovely Kristen Estrella. Kristen, who is studying in London this semester, arrived on Thursday afternoon for the tail end of her fall break. I was so excited for her to get here but a little nervous about what I was going to do with her for three days. For weeks before her arrival poured over guidebooks and websites trying to make the perfect itinerary. Finally I pieced together a plan complete with vaparetto rides, churches, museums, and gelato. But as soon as Kristen arrived it became apparent that it didn’t matter what we did, I was just happy that she was here. You see studying abroad is quite different from simply being away from home while at school. At school you are surrounded by friends, some who have become as close as family, and your parents and hometown are only a $15 bus ride away. Studying abroad, you are with people you’ve only known since you arrived and home is an 8 hour/$800 plane ride away. In this situation you get close with the other students right away, but they still only know what they’ve learned about you in the 3 months you’ve been here. No one knows the awkward you from middle school or the college-obsessed you from high school. They don’t know your favorite history teacher or what you did prom weekend. They have no idea what your small New Jersey town is like. While most of the time this is for the best (because let’s be frank it’s for the best that no one knows how I dressed in middle school), sometimes I want to talk about the Pompton Queen or crazy Doc Hett and no one would know what I was talking about. With Kristen here I could go on and on about our batty English teacher…not that I did because that would be creepy hahaha. Another reason why it was wonderful to have someone from home was because I got the opportunity to share Venice with someone. When I first got to Venice, I was awed by the beautiful, delicate, decaying city. But as time wore on I began to focus more on the flooding and the huge crowds of tourists and less on the sunlit calles and canals. Having Kristen here reminded me how lucky I was to live in such a unique city. Every time she would pause to capture a gondola going down a canal or laundry hanging from a window I remembered my awe those first few weeks of September. Kristen helped me to not take Venice for granted (because back in Pequannock there might be bagels and Pumpkin Spice lattes but there won’t be decaying buildings alone a canal or old Italian men blowing glass).
So Thursday afternoon Kristen arrived and we headed back to San Servolo. I had class and she had traveled all day so while I counted down the minutes in Venice and the Ottomans, she napped. That evening, along with two other friends, I brought her to Ae Oche, our favorite restaurant with the best pizza in town. Then we made our first gelato trip before heading to Santa Margherita. I quickly apologized for the lack of nightlife in Venice as we walked into Madigan’s. Once again Kristen helped to remind me that I once enjoyed what I now take for granted. Why was I apologizing for the lack of clubs when I don’t like going to clubs? Did I suddenly become some crazier partyer that I never was at home? No. I am perfectly fine with enjoying a few drinks at Madigan’s with my friends and catching the 1:30 vaparetto home. I mean it’s 1:30 for goodness sake, I’m tired, I’ve been out all day, being able to go home and go to sleep is a blessing in disguise. (Yes, I am in fact an old lady). The next morning we were well rested and ready to go. We grabbed a brioche and cappuccino and boarded the vaparetto to San Marco. Our first stop was Basilica San Marco. The extravagant, gold gilded basilica was erected to house the relics of St. Mark (which had been stolen from Alexandria by two Venetian merchants). Upon first viewing the church may seem quite over-the-top but soon you learn to appreciate the opulence and see the real beauty of the mosaics and pilfered marble columns. After the Basilica we made a quick stop and purchased the most beautiful ____________ for our mothers’ Christmas gifts. Unfortunately I can’t fill in the blank because my mom reads this blog and the gift is meant to be a surprise (sorry mom). Next we walked from San Marco to Accademia (my favorite part of Venice), stopping to see the Fenice Opera House. From the Accademia we continued to Santa Margherita where we had fuzzy navels with our sandwiches of bacon, Brie, and arugula…quite a delicious lunch. Then we made our second gelato trip. After gelato, we boarded the vaparetto to San Toma where we got off and visited Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari aka my favorite church in Venice. Inside the Frari is Titian’s Assumption of the Virgin, a beautiful painting from 1516 depicting the assumption and coronation of Mary. After the Frari we took the vaparetto further up the Grand Canal to Rialto where we wandered around the area taking pictures and buying more souvenirs. We stopped at the post office to buy stamps for our postcards. Unfortunately the post office was close…without explanation…which is just so Italian.
Hungry and without stamps we began our journey to find dinner. I was given the name of a great place by an Italian friend of mine “finding it is half the fun” she quipped. And boy was she right. Having been in Venice for almost 3 months I’m used to not having street signs, but when it comes to finding places “off the beaten path”, it’s nearly impossible. After wandering down three random, dark alleyways, we came upon a lamp lit campo right along the Grand Canal and alas there was our restaurant. The unique thing about Trattoria di Campiello Remer is that from 5:30 to 7:30 they double the price of the drinks at their bar. Once you buy a drink, you’re welcome to enjoy the buffet of delicious foods they put out. For 5€ you can get a cocktail and unlimited access to pasta, risotto, and appetizers. The table is frequently replenished, often with new items then were previously put out. Nothing on the table is labeled; they expect that if you’re there, you’ll know what’s on the table. I can easily say we were the only native English speakers. Everyone else were students, couples, and groups of friends, all obviously Venetian. When guidebooks talk about wandering down calles in search of local favorites, this is what they’re talking about. The buffet table was filled with local favorites as well. A note on Italian food…it’s prettier, healthier, and tastier than anything they serve at Olive Garden. It amazes me time and again how simple and yet how delicious Italian food is. The food at Remer was a perfect example of this. The pasta was adorned with fresh tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese (no creamy sauces here). There was also couscous with tomatoes and anchovies. Then there was an array of toasts with different spreads such as tuna, cheese, and once again anchovies (they love fish here). We devoured the food as we listened to the beauty of the Italian language and watched little nonnas dance to the live piano music (I’m serious, there was a grandma dancing). Stuffed we headed home (not before getting crepes…the girl is tiny but a beast). We ended the night in a food coma, watching a movie off of Netflix in my room.
The following morning as part 2 of Kristen’s Venice tour we hopped on the boat and headed to Santa Maria delle Salute. This enormous church is almost as recognizable as Basilica San Marco, as sits on Punto della Dogana, the point where the Giudecca and Grand Canal meet. Built in thanks for the end of horrible plague year (which killed nearly half the population of Venice), the Salute is yet another beautiful church in Venice. After the Salute we made our way to Accademia, walking through the artsy neighborhood of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. We passed numerous art galleries and came upon an amazing paper store where I’ll be purchasing numerous souvenirs and gifts. Our next stop was the Accademia museum where we viewed works by numerous Venetian painters such as Titian, Bellini, Tintoretto, and the like. For lunch we went back to Madigan’s, trading the fuzzy naval in for a Bellini, one of Venice’s signature drinks. Our last stop (after yet another gelato stop) was San Gorgio Maggiore, a church on the tip Giudecca, complete with a lovely bell tower. We took the elevator (no judgments, there aren’t stairs) to the top and had a wonderful view of Venice and the surrounding islands. When we got back to San Servolo we got ready for dinner and headed to the guys room for some good old-fashioned American football. You see on Saturday BC played Duke, so we gathered around a laptop, put on ESPN3.com, and drank some beer while watching the game. BC won, which was only the beginning of a wonderful night. Earlier in the day we had made reservations at Casin dei Nobili (meaning the nobles’ brothel…because once upon a time it was indeed a brothel), a restaurant recommended by Frommer that I had been dying to go to. It was lucky that we made reservations because when we arrived at 8:45 there were hordes of people waiting outside in the small calle.
At 9pm sharp we were seated in the tiny dining room next to an American couple. We first ordered red wine and bruschetta to share. Never in my life have I tasted toast as perfectly made as the toast for our bruschetta. It was toasted on the outside, and hot and chewy on the inside…alas I digress. For our main courses Kristen chose spaghetti with clams (a heaping pile) and I opted for the special, pasta with pumpkin, basil, and cheese. Finally for dessert we each ordered the chocolate soufflé, a dish the restaurant is famous for. As we sat there after our meal, smiling from the delicious food, the couple next to us asked for their check. When the waitress brought it over, the husband turned to us and asked, “Do you girls want a drink?” Shocked we said thank you but no. With that he turned to the waitress and said, “Can we have their check as well?” We were stunned, smiling and stuttering I almost cried as I thanked them. The couple explained that they remembered what it was like to be “poor college kids abroad” and they wanted us to “just enjoy our time here”. I couldn’t believe this was happening to us. The couple turned out to be from Manhattan; she wife grew up in Wyckoff. They traveled a lot and he often worked in London. They want on to explain that they had tried to pay for our meal without us knowing, but apparently there is some “privacy” law that forbids handing over someone else’s check to strangers. We laughed and quipped that in America they could care less who pays the check, so long as they get their money. When the waitress arrived with our check, the couple told us to hurry along and enjoy the Venetian night, I of course mentioned there was no such thing. We thanked them profusely and left the restaurant, walking on clouds every step of the way. Afterwards Kristen and I went over how much our meal must have cost. With the wine, appetizer, two main courses, and dessert it was at least 75€. The couple had shared a salad and pizza, meaning their meal was nowhere near as expensive as ours. I still can’t believe how lucky we were, or how nice they were. As Kristen perfectly explained it, the experience had restored her faith in humanity. We are so easy to assume the worst in people, and when he first asked if we wanted a drink I would be lying if I said I wasn’t suspicious. But alas they were simply doing a good deed, being generous to a couple of college girls (who continuously talked about how poor they were going to be throughout dinner). I wondered if this was something they did often, anonymously paying people’s checks. Anonymously! They didn’t even want recognition for it! I figured they must just be a well off couple that does generous, kind things whenever the opportunity arises. Kristen and I both decided that some day when we were rich and traveling we would pay the check for some “poor college kids”. Until then we would have to pay it forward in any way we could. The entire way home we talked continuously about the generosity of the couple, and my heart still warms whenever I think about what happened.
That night will go down as my best night abroad, not because I didn’t have to pay for dinner, but because I encountered such wonderful people, proving to me that such kindness still exists in this world. All in all this weekend was unforgettable. I was able to spend time with someone from home and share wonderful experiences with her. Throughout the weekend I couldn’t help but tell Kristen again and again how happy I was she was visiting. Years from now as I look back on my time abroad I will have hundreds of amazing experiences to remember, but when I remember this weekend, good times shared with a great friend, my heart and my soul will smile.